Just as the U.S. has several Amtrak trains crossing the North American continent, and Canada's VIA Rail travels the length of that country, so Australia has its own transcontinental passenger train, the Indian Pacific. This train runs on a standard-gauge line (there are several gauges in Australia) running across the southern section between Sydney, New South Wales and Perth, Western Australia. A one-way trip is about 2,700 miles and takes four days. The train is pulled by two Australian-built EMD diesel clones; each has the cab of an E-unit with a cowl body like that of an FP45. There is even an autorack car for those who wish to take their autos with them (much like the AutoTrain in the eastern U.S.). Most Australian trains use American- style knuckle couplers. Tape 1 (50 min.) Sydney to Adelaide
The westward trip begins at the train station in Sydney, with a few scenes of the city included. As the many passengers buy tickets and wait at the station, the locos and cars are washed and serviced. After the passengers board, the train leaves the station and passes through various neighborhoods in Sydney. On board the train, A conductor shows first-class passengers to their berths; people riding coach get just a seat. There are also views of the kitchen and pub cars. All throughout the show, people talk about their experiences on the train and about certain aspects of their lives.
Once out of Sydney, the train climbs up into the foothills of the Blue Mountains (also viewed from the air). The original line included the Great Zigzag, consisting of two widely-placed switchbacks. A retired engineer talks about steam operations through the mountains. A straighter bypass with several tunnels is now used for mainline operations, but the Zigzag is still used for steam excursions, one of which is shown briefly. The line's summit is at Katoomba, at 3,582 feet. Here, the Skyway tram and a steep cable car, originally used in mining operations, now entertain tourists.
Back on the Indian Express, chefs are busy preparing dinner as the train passes through wooded hills and through an unnamed town at sunset. After dinner, two musicians play an Irish jig on a guitar and an accordion as passengers dance. As passengers settle down for their first night's sleep, the train stops at the town of Parkes for a crew change. Parkes has several large radio telescope dishes for space research. Also shown at another time is the town's annual Elvis Presley festival where contestants do their best poor imitations of Elvis.
The line continues west across the plains. As the sky lightens, passengers wake up and get ready for breakfast. The train passes through Menindee without stopping, and crosses more dry scrubby plains, past several lakes, and across the Darling River. Wedge-tailed eagles are observed on a brief boat trip upriver. More tiny mining towns are passed on the dry red plains. A park ranger shows an old Aboriginal ceremonial place in low hills. The train stops in the major mining town of Broken Hill briefly; a vendor sells toy clowns on the street. At the town of Silverton is a small motel and pub; a former miner now does abstract paintings. The Express passes an ore train on the lonely plains; it is also shown in an aerial view. Now the land consists of grassy hills and flats bearing a striking resemblance to the interior hills of California. The train pulls into Adelaide, where some passengers detrain and others continue.
Tape 2 (50 min.) Adelaide to Perth
After passengers board and the Express leaves, several people take pictures of the train as it passes a park. The trip continues west through yet more dry plains as another dinner is prepared. Some views of the plains are seen from a lounge car. One man from Sydney is dressed in white Indian clothes and a red turban just for the enjoyment of it. The train goes through the town of Tarcoola at night, but we get to see it in daylight as well, with its community hall and pub. Out here, medical needs are met by the Flying Doctor Service; as the name implies, an airplane flies in with staff to treat people with infirmities. The next day dawns foggy and misty on the short, open forests of the red plains as breakfast is prepared and the train passes the town of Barton.
Now we come to the world's longest straight section of rail line, nearly 300 miles across the treeless Nullarbor Plain. This area is perfectly flat, with little more than grass and scrubby plants on an endless sea of red soil. The Express is viewed from the air, and passes a freight train on a siding. Here are shown old black -and- white films of gangs laying ties and rail using mules and an early tracklaying machine, and some of the first steam passenger trains through the area. The Express passes another freight and arrives at the tiny town of Cook, where passengers can walk around briefly. At the station is a large signboard saying "If you're crook, come to Cook"; "crook" means "sick," and the local hospital invites anyone to drop in for a checkup. A retired train "examiner" (inspector?) talks about living in Cook and raising a family in the middle of nowhere; everyone is safe and there's virtually no crime. As a thunderstorm flashes on the horizon, he takes a large jug and waters a tree he planted years ago and under which he wishes to be buried when he dies.
Back on the train, a woman and her grandson are returning to their home in Rawlinna. First, the train makes a mail drop in the town of Forrest. The couple who run the local airport exchange mailbags. They have adopted a young red kangaroo whose mother had been killed by a train; the 'roo is still fed by bottle. A brief side trip is made to the coast of the Great Australian Bight, where cliffs drop right into the ocean. Southern right whales breach the surface of the green waters, and several other Australian animals are shown.
The Express continues west across the Nullarbor and stops in Rawlinna, the location of an immense sheep "station" (ranch). The grandmother and grandson detrain and return to heir home on the station. Out here, a bush pilot has to find the sheep from the air. Once he spots a "mob" (flock), he radios to workers on motorbikes who round them up. A brief look at life on the station.
Finally the rails curve slightly as they leave the Nullarbor and enter open forests. Dinnertime again as the train passes through more forests. The driver (engineer) communicates on the radio and talks about running a train. At sunset the Express arrives at Kalgoorlie. A bus tour of the city is available; we see downtown storefronts and hotels as the driver points out attractions. Unfortunately the tour also includes a brothel; a female prostitute who used to be a man talks about her exploits. (That's all I'm going to say about that part!) The train arrives at Perth the next morning. There are many opportunities for beach recreation here; even the engineer decides to take a dip in the ocean. Here the show comes to a rather abrupt end.
Overall this show is interesting in most parts, although the night segments were not all that exciting. I would like to have seen more views of the countryside than the people on the train, and being a family man with conservative values, I think that the brothel segment could have been left out without detracting from the overall quality of the program. Also, a small foldout map would have been helpful; I had to consult an atlas for an overview of the route. No one show alone can do justice to the vast, fascinating Land Down Under, but there are a number of shows available focusing on a different aspect of Australia. "The Indian Pacific" is one of several videos in the "Great Australian Railway Journeys" series from Acorn Media; I haven't seen the other shows but I'm sure they're interesting, too.
=== Paul H! in AtasCal
Date: Mon, 10 Jan 2000 16:14:38 -0800
