5 comments about In Wonderland.

1. The publisher calls this a "loving portrait of the people and culture of Russia." Hamsun's anti-Semitism, though, leaves a bad taste in the mouth. It is more evident here than in any of his other writings.
   
   I'll give a few examples. I translate directly from my own Norwegian edition of the book:
   
   "Two Jewish ladies, apparently mother and daughter, complain to the waiter that their napkins are not clean. Other napkins are brought to them on a plate, but neither do these seem clean to them, and they must have new napkins for a third time. Then they wipe glass, knife, and fork before they use them. Their fingers are fat and dark, covered with jeweled rings. Then they eat. They are obviously very rich, and they sit and act so fine with their thick fingers. When they've eaten, they demand water bowls and wash their hands. It is as though they do this every day at home when they eat with their Abraham or Nathan. Then each takes her toothpick and cleans her teeth with it, while she covers the toothpick with her other hand as she has no doubt seen other fine folk in Batum do."
   
   "I thank the officer. He's a fat, slightly older man with strangely foppish manners. He speaks many languages loudly and boldly, but incorrectly. His face is unpleasant, Jewish [ubehageligt, jødisk]."
   
   "One hears singing from the Armenian Jews farther back in the car. It's a really fat old Jew [en rigtig fed gammel Jøde] and that fat eunuch who are singing a kind of call and response song. The unseemly behavior goes on forever, for two hours. Now and then they both laugh at what they've sung, then begin again with their monotonous song. The eunuch's voice is more a bird's than a person's voice."
   
   "He was a swindler, a Jew who tried to blackmail me."
   
   "A Jew can swindle ten Greeks."
   
   Lyngstad's translation is fine. He doesn't hide anything. All of the passages that I've translated here appear in Lyngstad's translation. Perhaps he softens Hamsun's ugly racism here and there. Take Hamsun's description of the Jewish ladies at table. Hamsun wrote:
   
   "De sidder og bærer sig saa fint ad med deres tykke Fingre."
   
   Lyngstad translates this:
   
   "They use their thick fingers so daintily."
   
   My translation is closer to the original and suggests, as I think Hamsun meant to suggest, that these women are not at all fine. They are merely aping their betters.
   
   It's interesting that Hamsun describes in this book his encounter with a Jewish peddler who attempts to sell him a cheap and useless watch that has one special feature that makes it valuable -- "there is a highly obscene picture in there. The picture seems to amuse him. He lays his head to one side and looks at it." I find the incident interesting because Hamsun resurrects the Jewish peddler of cheap watches ("klokkejøden" -- really a swindler) in Landstrykkere (Vagabonds), one of his better novels.
   
   This book (In Wonderland) should be of interest primarily to Hamsun enthusiasts who may not know about the writer's anti-Semitism. In his preface, editor Lyngstad acknowledges "the prejudiced and reactionary attitudes displayed in certain passages of the book." He points to Hamsun's "racial and other slurs on Jews." One has to take Hamsun as he is. Those interested in Hamsun as a stylist would be better off reading the novels -- Pan, in particular. Those interested in the Caucasus can no doubt find better books on the subject. Those interested in Hamsun as flawed human being should read this book.



2. This means you, "Gill Doyle". You are an idiot.
   
   Hamsun's "In Wonderland" is not an anti-Semetic diatribe. The tired old charge of Hamsun's "collaborationism" during WWII has been discussed to death and has been proven to be a red herring. Drop it, please.
   
   Nothing to add, review wise. It's a damned fine read, although something of an afterthought in the Hamsun canon. Be sure to read the more famous works, and come back to this as a completist, if thou art so inclined.



3. This is a travel journal of Knut Hamsun and his first wife from their trip to the Caucasus. The book begins in St. Petersburg, and details their journey by both train and horse-carriage towards Asia and Persia. The book captivated me totally, and I felt I saw the world of a hundred years ago through the words of Hamsun. As in all his books, he includes surrealistic episodes and warm humour from his small encounters with various characters and situations. He made me laugh several times, and it was wonderful to read about the different cultures and races he meets. He has a unique Germanic Norwegian view of things, and it's very interesting to follow his train of thought around what he witnesses. It's also a bit more of a political book than his other early novels, but I enjoyed that. As one of the few "right-wing" anti-modern conservative Norwegian authors, for once this fact really shines through in the text. I enjoyed his various racial descriptions, and for once his anti-Zionism is open. It's strange to think about that a famous author only 100 years ago could write so openly about this issue, compared to today's censured intellectual climate. A lovely light read, that makes you get to know Hamsun as a person even better. Highly recommended!
   
   (I read a different edition)



4. I have read a number of books by Knut Hamsun who is certainly an interesting writer. Recently I read several accounts of his travels in America where he freely expressed his opinions of the USA and various aspects of its' culture circa the 1880's. He has a keen sense of observation and a unique perspective of his fellow man. This is true in his book "In Wonderland" where he details an account of his travels in Russia just before the turn of the previous century. He details a lot of interesting observations from food to ethnic groups to travel accommodations. It comes across as a very interesting trip (with his "companion") and an interesting look at a world that has changed greatly since his visit. That look at a world that no longer exists is the real greatness of "In Wonderland".
   
   Hansun was a gregarious individual with freely expressed opinions that will (or, at least, SHOULD) ruffle some feathers. His disdainful comments about Jews keep popping up. However, looking past that you'll find he is disdainful of others as well. The bedbugs kept me from wishing I was along for the ride but I was able to appreciate the scenery nonetheless thanks to Hamsun's candid literary skills.



5. This book is a very much condensed version of the original, as told to me by old-timers, which detailed Knut Hamsun's trip through Russia in 1900. The original book was about 4 times longer and was worthy of a Nobel prize winner. This book only has a few stupid anecdotes, and portrays Knut Hamsun as an idiot.

5 comments about The Great Jewish Cities of Central and Eastern Europe: A Travel Guide and Resource Book to Prague, Warsaw, Cracow, and Budapest.

1. For anyone interested in the Jewish history of Eastern Europe, this book is compulsory. It also presents conceptual and detailed history of over a thousand years and up-to-date descriptions of what the traveller will find now. Don't leave it behind despite its heft.



2. I picked this book up from a friend's bookshelf intending to flip through the pages. I ended up taking it home with me and reading it from cover to cover. It's well written and filled with a great deal of fascinating history. Not having ever been to the cities mentioned in the book, I can't comment on the accuracy of the tourist information. But this book would be of interest to anyone who has a curiosity about the history of Jewish life in eastern Europe. If it's ever reprinted, photographs would make it even better.



3. Having known Eli many years ago at University, I couldn't wait to read this book to re-establish spiritual contact. What I wasn't prepared for was the depthand passion that Eli had written on the subject. This is a masterpiece that once you have picked up you will not put down until you have seen the cities and experienced the tours first hand. My only regret is that the vast majority of those reading this book may never actually visit Prague.



4. This book is a gem! I pick it up and settle down in my chair and am transported in time and place to Eastern Europe. I was in Prague before I read the book (it had not been published yet) and now when I read the Prague sections everything comes to life. Mr. Valley has a way with words. He supples the reader with his dense knowledge of his subject in an easy to read, matter of fact style. I would recommend this book to anyone whether or not they are planning to travel to the cities described. I am eagerly awaiting his next book.



5. I was lucky to find this book in the library and used it extensively while in Warsaw, Cracow and Prauge. The detail is incredible, the writing style excellent with a lilt of humor. This book -made- my trip so I'm buying my own copy. If you take this book to Europe with you don't bother hiring a guide or taking a tour. It has more than any individual could offer.

5 comments about Stories I Stole.

1. Knowing virtually nothing of the Caucasus I felt a little overwhelmed at first; but Steavenson quickly won me over with her absorbing writing and storytelling. I felt like I was right there with her. She has an incredible insight into human nature. I can't wait to read it over again, and expect to like it even better the second time around.



2. This impressive debut works on too many levels to winnow down to a brief review. Ms. Steavenson reminds me a bit of Isaac Bashevis Singer as she brings us into worlds we generally know only through newspaper and television reports. Her attention to detail and her encapsulations of characters and situations and the bigger picture are masterful, particularly at such a relatively young age. She knows what to leave out, so that what's powerful remains. Unlike some reviewers below, I thought the elements she included about her personal life were arresting and completely integrated. Extremely high recommendation for a work that also has the bonus features of a decent map, a glossary of ethnic groups, and background reading for those who want to pursue related works.



3. I admire Wendell Steavenson for this effort. Tbilisi intrigued her - it was a pin on her map and the germ of her idea (go some place unique; collect some killer stories; write a compelling travelogue). Many have thoughts like that...Ms. Steavenson carried it out. She paints a balanced, compelling pastiche of life in Georgia as it struggles out of its post-Soviet torpor. The only shame is that Ms. Steavonson isn't around to cover the Rose Revolution in which Eduard Shevardnadze is displaced by Mikheil Saakashvili's United National Movement. That was 2003 and Steavenson had her work published in 2002. Missed it by that much.
   
   "Stories I Stole" is like a mash-up of two other works I've read: Matthew Brzezniski's "Casino Moscow" and Tony Hawks' outstanding "Playing the Moldovans at Tennis." If you liked either of those works, you'll fall for Ms. Steavenson's stories.



4. The author happened to meet rather strange characters that make her end up with a pretty inaccurate impressions about the country. I grew up in this country, and I spend half year there every single year, and yet I could not recognize any of the features decsribed in this book. Hence - be carefull, readers. If you are just looking for a "story" - the book might be perfectly OK, and it reads well, but please, do not believe it gives you an accurate picture of the country!



5. This book reminds me of western journalists proudly standing on Red Square in Moscow and "accurately" reporting about events in Georgia (and I've seen quite a few of these reportages on CBC, CNN, BBC...)...
   Characters and stories are so far-fetched, use of Russian words (banya, babushka, shashlyk...) so extensive that I really wonder if Ms.Steavenson visited Georgia at all.
   Definitely this is not the book to read if you really want to get acquainted with Georgia and its people (or with the real causes of ethnic conflicts for that matter)...
   Don't waste your time and money.

4 comments about Russian at a Glance: Phrase Book and Dictionary for Travelers (At a Glance).

1. Cultural information is interspersed throughout the vocabulary in the phrasebook section; this really kept me interested in reading further.

   Features I really liked: the Quick Grammar guide covers an astonishing amount of material in a mere seven pages. Essential verbs (such as "want, "can," "need," etc.) are conjugated in the dictionary section so that the average tourist can use the correct form.

   This is another excellent entry in the publisher's "At a Glance" series.




2. This is an excellent phrasebook, with a very small form factor so that you can easily carry it in a coat pocket. The most useful feature is that words are shown in both Cyrillic and phonetic spellings so that you can pronounce the word or phrase with complete confidence. The emphasized syllable is capitalized. (Example: thank you = spaSIba) There's a nice dictionary in the back, and the grammar section is concise with easy rules. Great value for the money!



3. "Russian at a glance" is an excellent choice as a compact phrasebook to accompany you to Russia or other CIS countries. I have to be honest telling you this one is not as "worn" as our Lonely Planet phrasebook (my first choice). In spite of that, it definitely has a few great advantages.

   The first difference you'll notice will be the addition of maps of Russia, Moscow and the Moscow Metro. If you are going to Moscow, that in itself could be a lifesaver (I dare you to find a small map anywhere on the street when you need one!)

   It also incorporates a bit more helpful material such as passport control info and a brief cultural guide to each section- shopping, entertainment etc. The truth about traveling in Russia is that you will have a tough time finding much help once you get off the plane or train. The more you have thought through in advance or have at your fingertips the better.

   Another strong point is a decent sized dictionary for a phrasebook. The phonetic pronunciation guide for each phrase is good as well. This book is small, but not ideal at 3.75 X 6 inches and around 240 pages. The book isn't thick (3/8"), but the pages are tightly bound and a little difficult to turn. You may find it just a bit awkward to keep around at times.

   This will be a good choice for you, but honestly, this became our "number two" phrasebook during our 7 or so trips to Russia and Eastern Europe in the past two years. It was just a hair too big to keep in my pocket and we constantly opted for the Lonely Planet book instead. The lack of wear it received compared to the other speaks for itself.




4. I really like this phrase book / dictionary and after reviewing it with my Russian born soulmate, she agreed that it's well designed and very helpful. After looking at quite a few similar books that neglected to give helpful tools for learning syllable emphasis, I was delighted to find that this one does a great job throughout. The size is ideal for pocket use, which for me is more helpful in allowing me to keep it with me daily as I learn my soulmate's native language (rather than as a travel aid).
   
   Along the lines of "suitability for daily use", my only complaint so far with this book is with it's physical construction. I purchased a new copy ... and the cover was already partially coming detached from the body of the book when I took it out of the box. This did not appear to be shipping damage, as there was no damage to the box and the separation didn't appear to be due to a blow the book had taken. It looks like it was just never attached very well in the first place.
   
   I like what's inside well enough to keep it, but if you're planning to bring this one on a trip with you or use it every day as I do, you might want to keep a rubber band or other kind of little book carrier with you to make sure all the pages stay together. A book of this quality content deserves better construction.

No comments about EIMI: A Journey Through Soviet Russia.

3 comments about A Travel Guide to Jewish Russia & Ukraine.

1. Not only informative but terrific reading. It will keep you on the edge of your seat. A travel log that's enjoyable to read whether you visit the places or not. Put on your seatbelt because this is a journey well worth taking!



2. Approximately 120 years ago the majority of the world's Jews lived in what was called the "Pale of Settlement" in the Russian Empire of the Czar. Most American Jews today trace their ancestry to Russia, the Ukraine, and the surrounding territories and provinces of the old empire. Until Communism fell, the Jews of Russia and Ukraine had been suppressed and denied human and religious rights. With the collapse of the Communists, Judaism has emerged from centuries old persecution and pogrom and the synagogues, monuments, schools and other Jewish historical sites are available and accessible to the western visitor. Ben Frank's A Travel Guide To Jewish Russia & Ukraine is an invaluable, highly recommended travel guide for planning and implementing a trip in search of their family heritage and religious roots throughout Russian and the Ukraine.



3. This is a response to an earlier review that contained a major, major Big Lie.

   Specifically, "daryoush" from Seattle, in the course of commenting upon this book and expressing interest in a book about "recent Jewish history" in Lebanon, West bank and the Gaza strip, says the following:

   "I like to better understand the Israeli massacres in the refugee camps."

   He/she also goes on to make several other specious statements including usage of the term "concentration camps."

   Daryoush's statement is a Big Lie masquerading as a review. I have serious reservations about his/her agenda, but setting that aside for a second, the deaths in the refugee camps (that I assume he refers to, related to the 1982 war in Lebanon) were not "Israeli massacres." They were carried out, by all credible accounts, by Lebanese militiamen arguably under Israel's influence. This is not to excuse the killings, nor even Sharon's alleged negligence or complicity, but even in the worst case terming them "Israeli massacres" is simply inaccurate.

   One has to wonder about the mindset of someone who would use such a term.

   The need to respond to such garbage is a sad commentary upon the state of discourse on Israel and our times generally.

   - Ezra in Minnesota

2 comments about Running with Reindeer: Encounters in Russian Lapland.

1. Touted as Europe's "last true wilderness", Russian Lapland (which goes by a number of names, including the Kola Peninsula and Murmansk Region) lies mostly north of the Arctic Circle and is generally unknown to the West. This combination of undeveloped wilderness and mystery proved to be an irresistible destination for British art historian and fisherman Took, who made a number of trips there during the early to late 1990s. This book is the result of these trips he took to the region as well as a capable synthesis of the literature available on its inhabitants. It follows no distinct narrative pattern, hopscotching around in time and subject matter, as Took weaves his own travel narrative in with the history of the place.

   Although a glance at a map might lead one to think otherwise, this is no arctic tale. Due to a surprisingly beneficent gulf stream, the climate is much more temperate than one might expect. Which is why a great deal of Took's travel involved backpacks, camping, and industrious plodding through wildernessónot to mention decrepit planes, trains, and automobiles, and the odd helicopter or ex-Army tracked vehicle. Indeed, despite the title, he actually spends very little time with reindeer herders, as most of his visits involve trekking to remote villages and hanging out with the locals. As Took recounts, the traditional nomadic reindeer herding culture underwent profound system shocks under Soviet rule, when the Saami (the correct term for Laps) were forced to settle and their herds were collectivized. The parallels to the American conquest of Native American tribes all too striking, right down to the forced education of Saami children at boarding schools where they would be beaten if they used their native tongue. And just as in many Native American communities, modern Saami settlements have extremely high rates of alcoholism. His encounters and friendships with these native fishermen and foresters is engrossing, especially when he delves into the issue of fishing rights, which are tightly regulated. There's a very illuminating chapter on the establishment of luxury fishing camps for wealthy Westerners.

   Took's presentation of the area's history is quite fascinating as well, and he tries as much as possible to link it to people living there today. The region first came to prominent attention in the West in the 16th century, when trade routes were established, primarily seeking furs. Just after the turn of the century, an amazing wealth of minerals were discovered there, and mining became a large concern. Still, like Alaska, the area mostly remained a hinterland ó although it was a popular locale for gulag work camps. World War II saw the establishment of a front against German and Finnish troops, and the enlistment of thousands of native Saami to the Soviet Army ranks. Following the war, it acquired strategic significance with the advent of the Cold War, and much of it was militarized and placed off limits as numerous naval bases were built, and much of the Soviet nuclear submarine fleet was housed here.

   Which brings me to the book's one problematic area. In his zeal to explore every square mile of the peninsula, Took continually butts up against restricted military zones. Now, these areas are generally little more than crumbling decommissioned bases, many housing nuclear submarines that area literally falling apart into the sea. Still, they are patrolled by special services, and they are explicitly no-go areas. Took repeatedly scoffs at the notion that these areas are still off-limits, and finally deliberately crosses into one for a period, going so far as to get close enough to a base to observe its workings. This strikes me as the height of Western arrogance as well as the height of stupidity. First of all, he's lucky not to have gotten shot by some nervous conscript, or trigger-happy patrol. Second, his actions immediately endanger everyone who assisted him on his various trips, placing them under suspicion. Thirdly, I wonder what he would make of a Russian adventurer who decided to poke his nose around some military zones in the UK? Yes, the rules about these areas may appear stupid and arbitrary, but it incumbent on all who travel to respect the laws of the country we are traveling in. Otherwise, we not only endanger ourselves, but those travelers who come after us. This is the one aspect of the book that really upset me.

   By the end, Took has done much to dispelling the mystery of the region with his exhaustive travels and research. Ironically then, it is the sudden appearance of wealth in the go-go days of the late '90s that confounds him. In less than a decade, the Murmansk he first came to, with virtually no consumer culture or tourist infrastructure, is transformed into a fashion-concious city with boutiques aplenty, and heartbreaking child prostitutes. And upon reflection, this bleak end to the book is fitting for a region which, despite it's natural beauty, has seen a great deal of human and environmental catastrophe over the last century.




2. Who frequently tresspasses into closed military zones in Russia - sometimes for the purpose of viewing the wildlife and wilderness, other times for the purpose of viewing closed military and nuclear facilities? Roger Took, that's who. I'm certainly glad that he did, as it allowed for the creation of the fabulous book that is Running With Reindeer... but seriously, the man's got to be a tad nutty. I've done my share of crazy things in Russia, but did I ever sneak into any closed military zones? No. However, I suppose whether or not Took's actions have a bearing on his sanity doesn't really affect the outcome here, which was his creation of a stellar book.
   
   Running With Reindeer chronicles Took's adventures in the Kola Peninsula, a frigid bit of land in the northwest corner of Russia, over the course of a decade. Took interacts with the remnants of the native Saami (Lapp) and Komi tribes. Took addresses in detail their force relocation during collectivization, and the impact it had on their formerly nomadic lives. He traces the influx and impact of ethnic-Russian settlers in Tsarist and Soviet times - and the effects of their post-Soviet exodus from Kola. He examines the Allied invasion of Russia at the end of WWI (this chapter is actually one of best accounts of this occurrence that I have read; most historians have a tendency to gloss over this for some reason). Took addresses the enormous problem of pollution in the once pristine Kola Peninsula and its impact on the neighboring countries of Finland and Norway. He also spends a significant amount of time discussing the environmental and geopolitical impact of the decay of Russia's Northern (nuclear) Fleet. Apparently, the Kola Peninsula is full of nuclear products and biproducts just ripe for the taking - which is quite distressing given the current fears over what would happen should nuclear materials fall into the wrong hands.
   
   All in all, this book was fabulous. It provided an excellent glimpse into the lives and histories of the people of the Kola Peninsula, and I wholeheartedly recommend it to anyone with an interest in Russia. My only complaint with the book was that I wish there had been more photographs!

1 comments about Knopf MapGuide: Moscow (Knopf Mapguides).

1. As the founder of a company devoted to enriching cultural and business travel to Russia, we are always looking for a good books to recommend for our clients. One rare book in my collection of Avant-Garde graphics is by Alexandr Rodchenko and Varvara Stepanova, "Moscow Reconstructed." Written in 1936, it is a huge volume which describes with pride the re-construction of Moscow, the capital of world socialism. Throughout there are pop-ups, handles which take away old scenes and uncover new vistas. "Knopf MapGuide: Moscow" reminds me of "Moscow Reconstructed" in that it encourages the reader to interact with the text by unfolding a series of bound maps and viewing the selected neighborhood along with the best in sites, shops and restaurants.
   
   Most of the major streets are in both Cyrillic and Latin script, something most maps available in the West don't have.
   
   The listings of sites in each neighborhood will please most any visitor to the center of Moscow, and the names are given in both Cyrillic and Latin (but because of an overuse of transliteration, many places will have names unfamiliar to all but Russian-studies majors, such as "Sobor Vasilya Blazhennovo"-more commonly known as "St. Basil's Cathedral"). There are no web sites for sites, nor is there admission pricing listed, although the restaurants have the price of an `average' meal.
   
   "Knopf MapGuide: Moscow" is a unique guide in its small size and easy-to-use format. It is perfect to accompany the adventurous walking tourist exploring the center of Moscow, and is a useful aid for those Discovering Russia.
   
   Marc David Miller, Discovering Russia, New York

5 comments about Trekking in Russia and Central Asia.

1. I spent 5 weeks this summer traveling and mountaineering in Central Asia, primarily in the Tien Shan Mountains. Maier's guidebook, Trekking in Russia and Central Asia, was extraordinarily helpful for planning my travels and choosing destinations while travelling. It provided the essential information I needed to get into mountains. The maps and trek descriptions were almost always accurate, and the glossary in the appendix was very useful for breaking down language barriers. I'd rely on it again for future trips.



2. Traveling Russia is like nowhere else in the world, and Maier is uniquely qualified to help make sense of it. This book was the most interesting and useful of the required reading for Peace Corps volunteers going there.



3. This woman has managed to see things that some of us, Russians, are unable to notice, for the reality we live in is too close to our eyes. This book gave me a rare pleasure to see our people and places in a new, clearer, nearly stereoscopic, light.



4. Now that I've been to Central Asia, I understand why the Lonely Planet guidebook refers to Maier's book so often. This is a unique perspective on getting off the beaten path. Her advice is inspiring and practical. Recommend it for anyone who wants to get out of the cities.



5. While this book may be interesting to those who have not been to Russia/CIS yet and have no other sources of information, those who have and were expecting more detailed practical info on trekking will be sorely dissapointed.
   It does have lots of background information on various regions that are of interest to hikers, but unfortunately it is EXTREMELY thin on practical details.
   It tends to write pages about how interesting a region is in general, before finally moving on to "describe" a single trek of several days' length in maybe 10 lines or so! This is particularly bad in the sections about Asian Russia - the European part is covered a bit better.
   The maps and trail descriptions are all but useless for those planning to attempt the hikes on their own.
   Finally, the general advice on travel/hiking in Russia in the introductory section is so out of date now - having been written more than a decade ago - that it is of very little help either.
   All in all, if you want to read about how nice places await discovery out there, you will get your fill. Just don't expect this book to be of much help in actually trying to "discover" them!

No comments about Moscow: A Cultural History (Cityscapes).