5 comments about Vietnam (Country Guide).

1. We hiked to the top of Nui Ba Den (or Black Lady Mountain). LP page 376 says it's a 6 hour trek to the top and back, but we took longer.
   
   We didn't ride the cable cars part way up; we walked up from the very bottom.
   
   Started 8:40 am, got back down about 6:30 PM, and we rode those lovely cable cars down the last part. If I ever do it again, I'm riding those cable cars up to the trail head.
   
   Have you hiked to the bottom of the Grand Canyon? I have. 5,000 vertical feet down, 5,000 vertical feet back up.
   
   Black Lady Mountain is 3,000 vertical feet up, 3,000 back down. And I can tell you it's a much tougher trail than the Grand Canyon. Grand Canyon trails (both of them) are hands-free trails. That is, unless you want to occupy a hand with a walking stick, your hands are free to juggle hacky sacks, etc.
   
   The Black Lady Mountain trail requires some hour-long boulder scrambles, and in some parts you had really better keep three on the rock and only move just one hand or foot at a time. Keep three on the rock. Really.
   
   If you're no climber (I'm not) your upper body will be about half as sore as your legs the next day, because you are going to use both hands a lot. The next 2 or 3 days, getting up and down stairs was actually tough to do, real sore, so factor a recovery slow-down into your travel plans. I was way, way more wiped out than by hiking the Grand Canyon.
   
   Don't try the trail to the top in flip-flops; we saw several sad dead flip-flops. Some nice Teva sandals were great.
   
   Be careful, a bad fall is possible, a twisted ankle could happen even easier.
   
   Take plenty of water. We screwed up on that, and were very hot and thirsty when we got down to the cable car station. Victory drinks never tasted so cool and sweet!
   
   Take plenty of water. It's not hard to do, many vendors at the top of the cable car run.



2. I was already very disappointed by Nick Ray's "Cambodia", but "Vietnam" tops it all...
   
   Useless information: For example: "Post office - get rid of your stamps here." Do I really need a lecture what a post office is used for? What about opening times? Or if that changes too often - just don't say anything at all. But don't tell me what a post office is good for!
   
   For the package tourist the book might be okay. But for the independent traveler it is a horror! Example: "To get to the Perfume Pagoda by public transport is too complicated. Take a tour!" What?!?! I thought it's a Lonely Planet guidebook and not one of these colorful DK travel guides...
   
   Oh well, the only reason to use LP Vietnam is b/c it's the only guidebook you can get in SE Asia. It is a good idea to buy a Rough Guide (I hope that one is better!) in Bangkok/Hong Kong/Overseas and carry it all the way to Vietnam.
   
   On the other hand: Vietnam is probably not a good place for independent travelers anymore anyway (well, of course "off the beaten path" still exists... Thanks for that! But it's hard to find in Vietnam...)



3. For the first-time visitor to Vietnam, Lonely Planet's Vietnam 9 overall is a fine production -- and is easily Lonely Planet's best swing at Vietnam -- even if the style police are trying to ruin the show.
   
   Vietnam 9 covers all the big-ticket destinations comprehensively, with detailed sleeping, eating, drinking and sights information. There's a detailed orientation section, loads of maps, crystal clear photos and lots of general information. Good coverage on most of the border crossings is included and the transportation information is pretty easy to digest -- if a little confusing at times. A series of suggested itineraries, while not overly imaginative, remain useful for first time travellers.
   
   Authors Nick Ray, Peter Dragicevich and Regis St Louis have done the hard yards and crammed much of what Vietnam has to offer into Lonely Planet's famously tight word-limits. They've done a great job putting together what is a probably the most comprehensive text available and something much improved on Vietnam 8.
   
   Listings
   Guesthouse and hotel listings are concise and all budgets are well covered. There were some omissions which struck me as odd -- Mai House on Phu Quoc, Tay Ho Hotel in Can Tho, Jungle Beach north of Nha Trang, Hoa Hong in Da Nang and the Tung Trang in Hanoi -- all outstanding places, yet none made the cut. That said, there are stacks of excellent places they do mention -- more than enough for most readers. For the rest you'll just need to read www.travelfish.org.
   
   Sights-wise, the information is excellent. Lots of historical background and interesting snippets are woven into the text, acting as leads for the reader to learn more. For example Ong Pagoda in Tra Vinh includes a reference to the Chinese classic The Romance of the Three Kingdoms for more information on the pagoda's god Quan Cong.
   
   Transport
   Transportation comes in two parts -- a summary and the destination specific sections throughout.
   
   The summary section is good though a little unbalanced. There are almost three pages about getting a flight to Vietnam (surely something fairly simple), yet almost no information about the niche topic of buying a motorbike -- certainly an area where advice and suggestions would be useful. The train section has the briefest of fare charts, but thankfully steers people to the Man in Seat Sixty-One website (www.seat61.com) which is a far better resource.
   
   The destination specific sections vary. In particular better information regarding frequency of bus services would have been good. There are also some discrepancies -- the Qui Nhon to Pakse bus service is listed as taking 12 hours and costing 250,000 VND, yet in Pleiku it reads "There is also an international service linking Pleiku and Attapeu (US$10, 12 hours)". This error (Qui Nhon to Pakse is at least twice the distance of Pleiku to Attapeu) is repeated in the transport introduction. Perhaps if one of the writers had actually done the trip they'd know that Attapeu to Kon Tum takes about five hours and another two hours to Pleiku, while the Qui Nhon to Pakse trip can take up to 20 hours. Of course these errors can happen to anyone -- I'm sure there are some in Travelfish -- but hey, LP has a bigger editing team than us.
   
   Text and design
   Talking about editing, the text is dense and the writing dry, verging on encyclopaedic. I've met a number of the LP writers over the years and without fail they've been a much more interesting, amusing and verbose lot than this text would have you believe. Perhaps the editors could spin the dial back a little on their "textual-de-emotionaliser device" to let the occasional witty or cheeky line slip through.
   
   And while I'm on the topic of the back-end -- there's a new layout, and this one isn't great. A step forward is the removal of "Author's choice" aka the Lonely Planet Touch of Death -- replaced by a small "our pick" icon. A step backwards is the ordering of accommodation by price rather than quality. In this nod to the serial penny-pinchers, the rest of us are left scratching our head thinking "So which one do they recommend?".
   
   Fact boxes though are the real blight. Vietnam 9 saw its length increased from 524 to 540 pages, yet rather than bulking out destinations, there are now more than 100 shaded fact boxes. Of course, some are useful; "Tracking the American War", tying together various sections covering war interests, is great. But half a page dedicated to Regis St Louis's motorbike breaking down is excessive -- especially when there's but a lone paragraph dedicated to trekking out of Kon Tum. Minor point perhaps, but the designers should have their cookie-jar benefits suspended for the incorrectly typeset, mistakenly padded fact box on page 163 -- sloppy.
   
   Call me old school, but a move back to the basics -- accurate and easy to use information -- would be welcome. As an example, if you're looking for a list of internet resources for Vietnam, you'll be needing to refer to pages 21, 42, 58, 63, 69, 74, 79, 84, 89-90, 171, 465, 476, 494 and 495-6 -- whose bright idea was that?!
   
   Now I'm getting petty and trivial -- lets move on.
   
   Maps
   The 105 maps cover all the major destinations and look terrific, but in anything short of ideal conditions, are difficult to read. Vietnam 8's maps, while uglier, were far easier to use. The new maps replace clunky shades and chunky outlines with gentle hues and delicate lines. This may look great in Lonely Planet's mapping HQ, but when you're crammed in a minibus trying to decipher the Hanoi map by torch, you'll be thinking different.
   
   Photos
   The photos are terrific. From the wraparound train cover-photo to the bored tourists gawking at the carpet in Reunification Palace, they do a great job of catching -- and explaining -- Vietnam. In another layout change, the photos are clustered in the first few pages, closely followed by a food overview and then eight more pages of colour in the centre.
   
   Conclusion
   It's worth noting that some of my criticisms are general and not specific to Vietnam 9 -- overall it's an excellent guide and I've rated the book at 8.5 stars (out of 10). If you're going to Vietnam and planning on hitting all the key destinations -- you'll be set with this title -- no questions asked.
   
   *A pet peeve -- I purchased Vietnam 9 at a bookstore in Jakarta on July 20, and had seen it at the airport weeks earlier. Yet on the half-cover it reads "9th edition published August 2007". Unless Lonely Planet have a special in-house definition for the work "published" this is misleading to potential buyers who are looking for what they consider to be the most "up-to-date" text available -- it should read July 2007.



4. This was a very good guide. I got the Rough Guide, National Geographic and Let's Go and was most satisfied with Lonely Planet. This had the most up-to-date info and mentioned a few things that were not in the other guides. Let's Go might be best for people in their early 20's. All of the guides avoid giving opinions and pretty much list all the tourist destinations. I found the web site [...] to be the best source for recommends on what to see and do and used the guides for hotel information.



5. I am reviewing the L.P.2007 guide. Note: most of the other reviews are for older editions, ie. Pre-2007. I was in Vietnam January-February 2007 and used this guide.
   
   The guide has maps that are superb and easy to use. Both the accommodations and restaurants I chose from the guide's recommendations were good to very good. The cost for accommodations are listed in dollars, instead of the insipid icons that other guides use. Kudos!!! The restaurants cost quotes are in Dong. Caveat! Because the dollar is in a free fall against world currencies, you will need to add at least 20% to the quoted price for hotels, maybe more.
   
   Vietnam is a country of paradoxes: Communistic-Free Market. Traditional-Progressive. Etc. To capture a caricature of Vietnam is as demanding as it would be enigmatic. Yet, Dragicevich, Ray & St. Louis (authors) have written an outstanding brief profile of this country. "The Culture" is a section not to miss. No other guide is as complete if you are going to go "off the tourist track." I found towns and places in L.P. that other guides don't even list. The information was accurate and trustworthy.
   
   Unlike Rough Guide's Vietnam (8 pages) this guide has only a smattering of book/film recommendations. Sadly, in this guide, unlike other L.P. guides, there are few sidebars or text boxes that give you interesting tidbits about the country and its people. Though most all accommodations have an email address, there are NO webpages. NOT GOOD. This guide needs serious improvement in this area.
   
   The 2007 is a significantly revised guide and one of the best guides in print for Vietnam. This is a highly recommended guide - happy tramping. 4.5 Stars.

5 comments about Thai: Lonely Planet Phrasebook.

1. This is an excellent phrase book, easy to carry, easy to read and broken into easy to find section. Combined with a short language program this book carried me across Thailand comfortably. I mentione the language program because the pronunciation is a bit tricky to break down phonetically, altho Lonely Planet does a great job of it. I have used lonely planet phrase books for all of Asia and Northern Africa, but I must admit I use Rick Steve's phrase books for European travel. Lonely Planet Guide Books are also very good, especially for the bargain traveler.



2. I bought this book before spending 3 weeks in Thailand last year. I only cracked it a couple of times and had difficulty deciphering the phonetics. However, having just completed a Beginning Thai course offered by my county's adult ed department the book makes a lot more sense to me and I find the grammar notes and pronunciation easier to understand. I am headed back to Thailand next week and feel a lot more confident that I will be able to communicate if/when I come across non-English speakers. But for as good as this book is, I agree with the other reviewer that it helps to at least take a basic Thai course or listen to CDs like Pimsleur so you can hear the language. And as others have noted, top marks for including the Thai script along with the English phrases so you can just point if necessary.



3. This is a great little reference book if interested in learning Thai. Using some kind of on line or person audio assistance is necessary since Thai is tonal.



4. I am a huge fan of lonely planet guidebooks however I am not a big fan of phrasebooks in general. I have this phrasebook and can honestly say that i have never used it. The problem with phrasebooks is that no 2 are alike. Different phrasebooks give slightly different pronunciations (and with Thai slightly different tones) but again this all has to do with translation from one language into another which is not the best way to learn a new language( acquisition is proven to be the most effective but takes time!). However with this said, phrasebooks are practical for people who do not have time to study a particular language such as Thai which is very difficult for westerners and lonely planet is just as good as any other phrasebook that I have seen on the market to meet the needs of holiday travelers.



5. I've been to Thailand twice now and am planning to live there for a few years. This book has taught me the basics and beyond. I recommend it because the tone marks and pronunciations are easy to understand and the book teaches you the rules so that you can figure out different variations of a word. There is also an English/Thai, Thai/English dictionary in the back and the book is small enough to fit in your pocket. Thai script plus phonetic thai is included. The only downside I can see is that the words are so tiny that it's sometimes hard to see thai script vowels and tonal marks.

5 comments about Seven Years in Tibet.

1. I'm about half way through this book and I am amazed! I've not seen the movie yet so I really didn't know what the book was going to be about. What brave men these were! It's like a diary into these mens lives for a short time when the whole world was in turmoil. Definately read this book!



2. Before I start the review, let me point out, that Heinrich Harrer was a Nazi and did leave his wife behind to go mountain climbing in Asia. Now that is dealt with, this book focuses on Tibet. From when he escaped the English to when he fled Chinese invasion he tells a tale of surviving in a strange land, a strange culture and a strange language. His book is about Tibet, the people, places and life. About the brief period of time before the land of Lamaism was turned into just a part of China.



3. Adventurous, curious. The books reads like a biography, a travel book, a cultural study. Little by little, slowly, the culture of the distant mountains seeps into the reader's mind to open a welcome window on spirituality.



4. Don't let the fact that Seven Years in Tibet has been made into a movie stop you from picking up a copy of Heinrich Harrer's classic, real-life adventure. Whatever the movie's merits, or lack thereof, by most accounts the original story--the book--remains the best-told version of an incredible journey. Originally published in German in 1953, Harrer's Tibetan travelogue did not appear in English until the 1980s or become widely read until the 1990s. Harrer's tale provides the amazing details of his escapes, survival, evasion, and physical challenge. Beyond the reward of finally arriving in Tibet, Harrer experiences the greater victory of actually creating an enjoyable life for himself in Lhasa and eventually serving the Dalai Lama himself.
   
   Born in Carinthia, Austria, Harrer spent his youth skiing and hiking in the alps. In 1936, the author secured a place on the Austrian Olympic Ski Team and became the winner of the World Students' Championship Downhill race. Reluctant to make ski movies as a follow-up career, Harrer strove to win a place on a Himalayan climbing expedition. In 1943, the author was invited to join a German-Austrian team on the Nanga Parbat Expedition, which was led by Peter Aufschnaiter. After this second thrill of a lifetime, the young mountaineer found himself facing yet another unusual life challenge. After the expedition, while waiting in Karachi, India (which was then British territory) for return transportation to the West, World War II broke out. The climbers were arrested and taken to an internment camp at Dehra Dun, near the border of Tibet.
   After two years and two failed attempts, Harrer and Aufschnaiter finally succeeded in escaping. Their subsequent struggle to reach Tibet, and eventually Lhasa, required them to draw on every skill they knew as mountaineers and athletes, as well as their college educations and general handy man know-how. They faced obstacles and dangers--rugged terrain, the altitude, winter weather, diminishing supplies, lack of funds, injury, roving bands of thieves, and the hazards of traveling without documentation--that only the truly determined could overcome.
   As though a gift to reward their efforts, when the two men finally did reach the "forbidden city" of Lhasa in January of 1946, after nearly two years enroute, they were not turned away. In their isolation from the rest of the world, the Tibetans were just as curious about these two Europeans as Harrer and Aufschnaiter were about the citizens on "the rooftop of the world." In addition, the Tibetans in and around Lhasa assumed that any foreigner who had made it this far must posses proper paperwork. Once in Lhasa, the Tibetans actually found it quite amusing that these two men had managed to make it into the mystical city without passes. It was truly a feat, considering the measures Tibet's leaders undertook to keep out foreigners--in fact, Harrer notes that he met no more than seven other foreigners during his five years in Lhasa.
   While the first half of the book deals with the two mountaineers' struggles to reach the holy city, the second half of the book concerns the fascinating details of how Harrer and Aufschnaiter managed to ingratiate themselves with the locals, eventually becoming respected members of the community. Harrer presents his understanding of Tibetan daily life, culture, and society, and details how he established himself as a citizen. Harrer finds his first job when he builds a fountain in a friend's yard--which leads to more work as a landscape architect. He is commissioned to conduct a geographical survey, and later to construct a dam. He even serves as an ice skating instructor to the locals. Eventually his work leads the Dalai Lama's family to befriend him. As a result, he becomes a tutor to the young holy man. One of the more interesting duties he had was to make films of various ceremonies and festivals for His Holiness, and he is even asked to construct for him what might be the first home cinema. He managed to take advantage of his status as royal film maker and shoot his own photos whenever possible. They must be invaluable today!
   For many readers, the most valuable part of this book is that which concerns Harrer's interactions with His Holiness the 14th Dalai Lama and his resulting observations. As an outsider and non-Buddhist, Harrer reports that the Dalai Lama was impressively intellectually curious and intelligent, hard working and full of initiative. Despite his youth, the boy king had already established a highly developed sense of diplomacy and vision for his country. As he helped this famous young man learn as much as possible about the wide world beyond, Harrer laments that Tibet's desire to remain neutral in world affairs and her resulting political isolation made her an easy target. If only this boy had had a chance to rule, he notes, Tibet may have met with a different fate.
   Unfortunately, both Harrer and the His Holiness' good intentions were foiled in 1950, when the country was invaded. Harrer knew his time had come to leave his adopted country, but he has remained a life-long champion for his beloved second home.
   Few places on earth conjure up as many images of tantalizing mystery as Tibet. Fortunately, Seven Years in Tibet offers us a unique glimpse, from a what is truly an insider's view, into the untouched culture of Tibet. Harrer's book is often regarded as the best account of the "real" Tibet, as it once was, and as many hope it will some day return.



5. An amazing true story about the escape of a German from a POW camp in India during the second world war. Somehow he and his friend beat the odds and were allowed to stay in Tibet. I haven't seen the movie, but just cannot imagine that Brad Pitt could be convincing in this role.

5 comments about Beijing (City Guide).

1. The information is good but there are no Chinese characters of locations/names to show to taxi drivers. The pronunciations are just too difficult for some one not adept at languages or who has not studied some Chinese. I have taken over a dozen trips to China and find books with Chinese characters far more useful.



2. If you go the largest imported books bookstore in Beijing, which is located in Wangfujing, and grab this title from the shelves, you will find that several paragraphs in the book have been covered with a white paper strip: my own educated guess is that one probably dealt with Beijing's traffic congestion and the other with a certain bloody episode which happened on Tian'anmen Square in 1989.
   
   I asked an employee what this meant. "The content must have been politically harmful", was the answer. There was no trace of embarassment in his voice. Business as usual...
   
   Nevertheless, the book is available. Who will want to buy a blatantly censored copy for what is still a high price remains an open question. This may sound anecdotal but it isn't. It just shows how little things have really changed although China is reputedly the land of Change. I must congratulate the author for having written some "politically incorrect" stuff about Peking (let's stick to the old name, it is so much easier to pronounce), but I have to disagree with his general appraisal of the city. It is quite true that, as he states in the preface, Peking has been a "global irrelevance" for many decades, but it is simply false to claim that it is now an "exciting time" to visit the Chinese capital.
   
   Think about this: John Blofeld (1913-1987), a British scholar who wrote books on Eastern philosophy and religion, and traveled extensively in Asia, including China, reports in one of his travelogues that when he visited Peking in what are for us "the good old times", before the Communist takeover that is, local people were already complaining that the old ways had disappeared.
   
   Today, more than half a century later, after the Great Cultural Revolution and the demolition of the magnificent city walls, Peking finds itself in the midst of what in fact amounts to a second Cultural Revolution: an unprecedented, huge urban overhaul designed to turn it into a futuristic metropolis.
   
   To sum it all up, Peking has completely lost its soul and one must ask: Where is the excitement, really? Are we talking about the five-stars hotels with their international buffets? Are we talking about the fact that local people can now buy French foie gras in the nearest supermarket? Are we talking about those glass and steel skyscrapers that have turned large areas of the city into what looks like a kind of alien Martian base? If that is something that makes you excited, yes, then by all means do visit the city. You will be satisfied.
   
   Leaving aside the architectural monstrosities of the recent past and those that are being built in complete disregard to the ancient city environment, let us have a look at Peking's much publicized cultural heritage. Is it really worth seeing?
   
   My answer is a definite NO. Keep your money for Pompeii, Tikal, Versailles or Angkor Vat. First of all, unless you are acquainted with Chinese culture, chances are that you will not be able to appreciate what you see. Just as it takes some time to appreciate a book or a piece of music. The reason is that Chinese architecture is not spectacular at all. And it is quite devoid of originality. If you have seen one pagoda, you have seen them all. Besides, you probably can't read Chinese characters. Chinese art is an extension of the writing system.
   
   But there are many other factors that combined will probably make a visit to Peking quite disappointing, if not infuriating (for a sensitive traveler, that is). First of all, the crowds of tourists, both foreign and Chinese. They are overwhelming (and unfortunately most interesting sites have rather short opening hours). Second, the ruthless commercialism and incredibly bad taste: the merchants of the Temple are omnipresent. I am not only talking about nagging vendors, souvenirs shops, noisy fast-foods and bars inside the premises, but also about big and small advertising boards and a multitude of ugly modern artefacts that mar both the great monuments and the more modest ancient alleys ("hutongs").
   
   A few examples: if you go to the Forbidden City, you will find pistachio green plastic garbage cans everywhere. The benches inside the palace all bear advertising plaques for a company that sells air conditioners. If you visit the( few remaining)hutongs, you will find that the old houses are lined with brand-new cars and that their façades are marred by big air conditioners. Near the Forbidden City, the hutongs are dotted with ugly telephone booths in the shape of an orange mushroom (yes!)every five or ten meters. The tiles on most pavilions and pagodas are made of ugly, grey concrete (the real thing is too costly). There must be more than a hundred big, red fire extinguishers in the otherwise quite beautiful Lama Temple and there are alas not hidden from view. Roofs around Tian'anmen Square are bristling with huge, unsightly mobile phone towers. The wonderful animal and human statues in the Spirit Way, which is part of the huge Ming Tombs Site, are all flanked by a big plastic garbage can and they have built new roads on both sides of it: enough noise to scare away the spirits and prevent you from entering a meditative state...
   
   Etc., etc., etc. There is no end to the list of things both small and great that spoil the remnants of the past in Peking and elsewhere in China, which shows just how culturally decadent Chinese people have become. One could without exaggeration say that today the urban culture in China is an extension of Las Vegas and Hollywood with some Chinese elements thrown in for good measure (and face!).
   
   Sometimes the incongruities are so blatant, so ludicrous that one starts wondering if there isn't a kind of conspiracy, a deliberate attempt to debase and desecrate the past, which is after all just superstitious rubbish for a true Communist and a mere merchandise for a true Capitalist (they are pretty much the same in my opinion). The alliance of the two has produced what may be the biggest kitsch paradise on earth: Pe-kitsch.
   
   The third point you need to keep in mind is the weather, which can be summed up as: cold winter smog, spring sandstorms and smog, summer sauna and smog (+heavy rains in July) and dry autumn smog. Twenty years ago(yes, I have lived that long here!), Peking had a Mediterranean climate of sorts with clear blue skies most of the time, but due to heavy traffic pollution the city has now smoky skies with no wind and therefore a suffocating atmosphere most of the time (let's say about 70 percent of the time). In many places, the air stinks with the smell of chemical paint. It is also full of dust particles from the thousands of construction sites, to say nothing of the exhaust fumes from the hundreds of thousands of trucks, bulldozers and private cars that race through narrow alleys and oversized avenues alike.
   
   The fourth point is traffic. It is increasingly difficult to go from one place to another without being caught in huge traffic jams (the government actually encourages people to buy cars and they hope every household will have its own car by 2020!!!). The happy times when you could go around leisurely riding a bicycle are basically finished. Now the streets have become a battleground and cars crowd even the sidewalks. The subway network is pitifully inadequate and incredibly crowded. As another expat once said to me: "I never take the Beijing subway because to find the nearest subway station, I have first to take a taxi."
   
   The fifth point is service. While young shop assistants and other employees are generally friendly (but not always competent), a large part of the local staff, specially in parks, museums and big supermarkets, is composed of (sexually frustrated?)middle-aged women who are rude, indifferent and lazy. There is a pervading mood of discontent and irritation in the city, which is quite comprehensible considering the high level of environmental stress, the lack of genuine community life (most "local" people are rootless domestic immigrants)and the political tyranny. Add to this the fierce competition for jobs, the money problems and all the cares inseparable from both great and modest affluence (blessed are the poor, indeed!). Almost everyone will try to rip you off. Money reigns supreme.
   
   This is not to say that there aren't any beautiful or interesting places to see--the author of this guide has done a good job in this respect since he mentions not only the (fake) Great Wall at Badaling, but also other segments of the wall in wilder areas-- but most of them are outside the city. Or you have to be in the Forbidden City on a cold, rainy day or at the peak of a media-orchestrated flu epidemic, when the crowds are away. Even then, you will have to close your eyes often in order not to see all the jarring details I mentioned before.
   
   You may appreciate the cheap food. The poor will still smile at you and greet you (while the new middle-class rich won't even look at you). The huge parks provide a welcome respite from the ugliness and noise of the rest of the city, but they are quite ordinary and, like the whole place, not genuinely Chinese, but a sloppy mixture of styles. Even here, under the shadow of gracious willows, your contemplation of the beautiful lotus ponds will often be interrupted by the awful noise of spitting indigenous males clearing their throats. This is China!
   
   Remember the white tags of censorship in the book. And know that contrary to what the cover photograph wants you to believe, very few young people in Peking practice kungfu. These days they prefer to play basket-ball or electronic games.
   
   
   PS: Read the "Ugly Chinaman" by Boyang to understand why this country has become such a mess.



3. Comprehensive, concise and well-organized. A great resource and a true bargain. The fact that this series proudly features long-time local residents in their guides says a lot about their commitment and values. I also appreciate that they inspire enthusiasm and exploration in the reader almost from the first page. Also note this is hot off the presses in August 2007. Unless they somehow got everything totally wrong (I'll know when I visit over New Year's) this is 5 stars easily.



4. I saw this book in a book store the other day and sat down to take a peek through it. Two hours later and I realized that, well, it was two hours later. This is a very good guide, but for a city as culturally interesting as Beijing, one wouldn't really expect anything less. Beijing is easy to get around (it's essentially a giant grid enveloped by a handful of ring roads) and the transportation system is a breeze, if not a little dingy. Also, there are plenty of engaging sites and areas to take in (the hutong are fascinating) and it is quite obvious which places you should see and which you may want to forego. The Lonely Planet doesn't always come through in the way you expect it to, but it does here. Moreover, it doesn't prattle on in flowery, over-generous language like it does it some volumes. I give this book a bouyant four stars.



5. The quality of the book does not compare with many others available. Very few pictures let alone even fewer color pictures. Information is pretty helpful. However nothing really stands out.

5 comments about Maximum City: Bombay Lost and Found.

1. I've been living in Bombay (no one uses "Mumbai" unless we're mailing something!) since I was 14. I am now 29, so you could safely say I grew up here.
   
   First of all, this is NOT A TRAVEL BOOK. I wouldn't even call it a travelogue or whatever.
   
   If you're looking for a book that gives you insight into the underbelly of this city, this is it. It's backed by research and many first hand (second hand?) accounts of what really happened and still happens here.
   
   Going through the reviews here, I found it very interesting that each and every one of the 1-star reviews here is from a bombayite. What's more, judging by the names of the reviewers, most of them seem to be from the community which supports(supported?) the political party which has been thoroughly lambasted in this book. That probably tells you that you should take the extremely negative reviews with generous doses of salts.
   
   It is also not for you if you're looking for a "light read". This book is mostly dark, though the writer has attempted to be objective, and mostly succeeded. That probably explains why some people were disappointed. Read this book if you want a fascinating portrayal of the negative shades of a third-world city which dreams of being the financial capital of asia.
   
   One thing I think could've been better is this book doesnt' speak about the million positive things happening in Mumbai. It focuses mostly on the issues the writer was dismayed and depressed to find on returning to this city. It also doesn't talk much about what we bombayites call "the spirit of mumbai". How many cities do you know of across the world which has, in the last decade alone - experienced a flood, massive communal riots, (and not just the ones they're referring to here), multiple bomb blasts (again not just those mentioned here), facing the kind of "quality of life" problems first-world cities never faced even a hundred years ago - and yet the city is still growing, and the inhabitants of that city truly believe in letting go of the past and bouncing back everytime?
   
   This book could've spent some more time on those inhabitants who display their enterprising and never-say-die spirit on a daily basis. Who've shrugged off the immense problems we face and made something of themselves without breaking the law or doing something immoral. Believe me, there're literally thousands of those here, if not tens of thousands..
   
   All in all, it's a very good read that made me revisit some issues which I'd preferred to overlook. Bombayites should definitely read it once. Wherever you're from, read it, but by no means should you form the conclusion that this book gives you a comprehensive picture. And sorry I just have to say this again - remember - this is NOT a travel book! Even if it somehow got advertised or portrayed that way.



2. I live in Bombay at the moment and many people recommended this book. I am quite surprised that it has such a good reputation both critically and at the grass roots level. The material is desperately in need of a good editor, and frankly, a better writer. The gangster stories are repetitive and far too long, the chronology of the book is extremely confusing, and much of the material is very out of date (the state of the criminal world ten years ago is far different from today). The writer's prose is literally incomprehensible at times, often muddled, and frequently infuriating in its laziness and inexactitude. By the end, I didn't much care what the author had to say, because he was so hard to read. In addition, he inserts himself far too often into the descriptions of life in Bombay. This is particularly true whenever he deals with a situation involving an attractive young woman. I felt embarrassed for him and his narcissistic need to hint at his growing emotional intimacy with the bar girl Monalisa. Really in poor taste for a man whose story begins with him moving to Bombay with his wife and children. What of them? Key at the beginning, then forgotten. Furthermore, the author fails again and again to dig deeper with his interview subjects when they say things that beg for further questioning or clarification. A little of that goes a long way. One thing I can say definitively, which I think says it all: I will never read another piece by this author, because there are too many good authors out there with a prose style that makes a book a joy to read, not a chore.



3. I received this book as a gift from my sister, who went to college in Bombay. I myself have lived in Bombay 6 months at the most in a stretch, but have visted it many many times and have several relatives there.
   
   If you have never been to Bombay and you read this book, it might scare you. Bombay might seem like this ominous city under the control of gangsters, trigger-happy policemen, self-serving politicians, and such. Although these are undoubtedly aspects of the underbelly of the city as perhaps of many large cities around the world, a casual visitor to the city will of course experience none of this in all likelihood. But then, this isn't really intended to be a tour book for the casual visitor either.
   
   This book could perhaps be called "Bombay Underground", and that would be an apt title for it too. It takes you into the undercurrents of Bombay that you suspect exist, and which you might see surface and manifest themselves in the mundane day-to-day happenings of the city from time to time, but nothing quite like this book describes. In that sense, this is a brave undertaking and an intrepid journalistic venture -- Mehta meets with the glitterati of Bollywood and the good cops, but also with the lost souls and downright dangerous criminals of Bombay. I also found Mehta to be an objective observer although the Bombay riots really touched a deep communal nerve and discussing the riots, the aftermath and the judicial process could be a highly divisive and controversial issue. Despite having deep roots in Bombay and a conservative family background growing up, Mehta doesn't take sides and raises the right questions.
   
   My only grouse with the book, like many others have also commented, is that it is perhaps too long and could have been edited a little more tightly. However, it did provide me with an excuse to read a little longer and anyway, it's not just the size of the book that matters as we all know. As the cliched Hindi film advertising joke goes: This book has drama, emotion, tragedy, romance -- you gotta have all that in a book about Bombay, and I had fun reading up on a different perspective on the city!



4. Author of .How to Mediate Like a Pro: 42 Rules for Mediating Disputesand How to Negotiate Like a Pro: 41 Rules for Resolving Disputes
   I just got back from a trip to Mumbai, specifically looking at the Art Deco architecture. Even though we saw a lot of Mumbai and learned a lot from our guide, I had a lot of questions and Maximum City answered them for me. I liked the way Mehta broke it down into various topics: the water, the sewers, the mafia, development, police corruption and honesty, Bollywood, garbage, beliefs, education, religions,and prostitutes. No one topic can be looked at in a vacuum. I am still processing my visit in my mind. Mumbai was my favorite city in India and that is partly because I have some understanding after reading Mehta's book. I hope he writes an update soon on the latest developments



5. Fantastically written...In no better way could have the author penned down his feelings for Bombay!

5 comments about Hot Sour Salty Sweet: A Culinary Journey Through Southeast Asia.

1. I have been cooking food from Southeast Asia for over 15 years, so I have quite a cookbook collection. I must say that this is one of the best books on the subject that I own. They got it right in the title: hot, sour, salty, sweet---the combination of flavors used all over Southeast Asia. Great information for beginner or seasoned cook. And, wonderful, authentic recipes to boo! A must have for anyone interested in cooking food from this area of the world. ---Rev. Jeff, www.revjeff.com



2. Of the dozen cookbooks I own, this remains my favorite. Mr. Alfrod and Mrs. Duguid bring the sights, sounds and smells of the Mekong river alive with excellent prose, assisted by photos from their travels. I have made about half the recipes in this book, and they are excellent. As the authors mention, their children love it, and I can believe it. Some ingredients and techniques are unusual, but the detailed instructions and indexes make it easy to get into SE Asian cooking. Some days I end up reading a few dozen pages when a just meant to pick a simple recipe. It is as delicious to enjoy in the study as in the dinning room!



3. `Hot Sour Salty Sweet' by husband and wife team, Jeffrey Alford and Naomi Duguid is a troublesome book to evaluate. Its biggest problem is its relatively high list price ($45) for no more than average culinary content. Much of that inflated price is based on its oversized heft and the fact that it mixes cooking content with comments on culinary regionalism and pure travelogue in text and pictures.
   
   I confess that this is a very attractive book, very similar in appearance to their later volume, `Home Baking' that I enjoyed and very favorably reviewed. And, since the authors have just come out with a new book with similar heft, price, and subject, I figured it was time to attend to reviewing this volume.
   
   Aside from the price, I have one major problem with this book. While its focus is the culinary world of Southeast Asia, the text is far more anecdotal and personal than it is analytical. After reviewing many excellent books on the regional cooking of France, Italy, and other parts of the Mediterranean, I really find this book very thin on substance. Part of the problem for me may be that it tries to cover far too great an area. In 324 pages of material, they cover Thailand, Burma, Cambodia, Vietnam, Laos, and Yunnan Province of China. Thailand alone has required a 675 page book (`Thai Food') from David Thompson. And, on the ingredients of Asia, you can get a far more comprehensive coverage in Bruce Cost's classic `Asian Ingredients'.
   
   In contrast, the books on Italy's regions all include great insights on the origins of culinary mores in these relatively small venues. And, while Arthur Schwartz' book on Naples may include 50 detailed recipes for pasta in Campania, this book gives but 10 for a much larger region. On the other hand, I give the authors extra credit for providing a recipe for fresh, homemade rice noodles. You may have a bit of a problem wrangling this big book around your kitchen and making a decent photocopy of the oversized page, but it is still a good recipe.
   
   If you have no interest whatsoever in acquiring any OTHER books on Southeast Asian cuisine and you have the budget for it, this is a very nice book. I just think that if you are serious about learning about food, you look for books with greater depth and less fluff.
   
   I find it very interesting that none of the blurbs on the back of the book refer to this volume and none are from culinary notables. All refer to the authors' earlier book on flatbreads and most come from general publications such as `The New York Times' and `The Globe and Mail'.
   
   I can really appreciate all the nice things other reviewers have said about this book, as I was impressed with it when I first looked at it 300 cookbook recipes ago. Since then, I find it just a bit too light for the price.
   
   Recommended as a good coffee table book. Look for it at a steep discount!



4. Pondering on whether to return book or not. Purchased for Cambodian recipes, having a hard time finding a Cambodian cookbook, this was the best bet = and it does have dishes for things we ate like Khmer soup, pumpkin curry and a similar version to Amok. (oddly i have the amok recipe in my New York Cookbook, a favorite standby)
   
   But as an avid photographer and traveler and cookbook collector, i have to say the travel writing is amateurish, the photos are not great (a mini picture of Angkor wat and i don't think i saw many pictures of places i'd been to in thailand or vietnam - just street scenes - what kind of travelogue is this?) and never seem to match the right page (you would think there would be a photo of what you are reading about next to it) and the pictures of dishes are far and few between. For the huge irregular book format of the book there are not that many recipes. Compare for example "the Cook's Book" for the same heft has 685 recipes.. Compare with Nobu Now for the difference in food photography capability..
   
   if many of these reviews didn't say the recipes are good they are part of daily repetoire, i'm tempted to return. it really is way to big for the content inside.



5. This was given to me by a good friend. I love to cook, and over the years have struggled with South East asian, Thai in particular, cooking. But this book lays it all out in such a way, and has such clear instructions that, in combination with an asian grocery store, it is foolproof. As a bonus, the travelogues and side bars are wonderfully interesting. Even if you don't cook, you will be taken away on a wonderful culinary journey through the region.

4 comments about Insider's Guide to Beijing 2008.

1. Finally got my copy from the friendly Friendship Store on Changan Jie. My wife (a Beijinger) and I own a real estate service for expatriates in Beijing and always have a copy on hand, as do all our consultants, Chinese and foreign. The depth and accuracy of information is impressive. Unlike many guides, little or none of the content is re-hashed from previous years. Both entertaining and informative, it's an essential reference for native Beijingers, expatriates and students alike. Tourists wanting an insight into contemporary Beijing might consider it too as it's filled with anecdotes. However, sparse coverage of historical aspects of the city.



2. This book navigated us through the city for two weeks, spot on. We saw the historic sights and emerging China, a lot of if from a local angle. And the restaurants! Great book.



3. This is a useful guide overall in it's scope.
   
   That being said.. It could do without the constant smartass "tongue in cheek" tone that pervades Asian expat publications though, as the writers come off as patronizing at times. Some of the page long articles are rather useless diatribes.



4. I've been living in Beijing for almost ten years. My wife and I live by this book, and our visitors from abroad use this as their comprehensive reference for their Beijing visits as well. Great book for expats and tourists alike!

No comments about The Rough Guide to Japan Fourth Edition (Rough Guide Travel Guides).

1 comments about Frommer's Vietnam: Including Angkor Wat (Frommer's Complete).

1. I used this book while in Vietnam in August 2006. It was very helpful in both Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City. Cannot comment on it's usefulness in other cities.

5 comments about Iron and Silk.

1. I've seen this movie some 15 years ago and very much enjoyed to see it again.



2. "Iron and Silk" is a delightful book and film. I had the pleasure of reading the book awhile ago; but was delighted to see the film in a local Asian film festival in my community.
   
   The author Mark Salzman plays Mark Franklin in the movie of the same name. It is a memoir (a true story) of Mark's travel and teaching experiences in China (Changsha, Hunan Province). The events took place during 1982 - 1984 and Mark became as much of a student of Chinese life, martial arts, calligraphy, tai chi as he was a teacher of the Middle Aged English Teachers (a group of Chinese Russian teachers at the Hunan Medical College who had been told to forget Russian and now learn English).
   
   Mark always wanted to be a Kung Fu master growing up, and he took lessons from a local teacher; but always felt like the smallest kid on the block. From a young age, he loved all things Asian. His mother was a musician and his father a social worker; but he found that he had developed an exceptional talent for the cello. He was admitted to Yale at 16 because of his cello expertise; but soon decided that he would major in Chinese languages and philosophy (again not much of a surprise). As part of a Yale program, he found himself traveling to Changsha, Hunan Province, China to teach English to a group of Chinese Russian teachers who were being asked to retrain. For two (2) years he lived, taught and learned a great deal in China about the Chinese people and also about himself.
   
   He always wanted to study martial arts from a true wushu master and was fortunate enough to find as his teacher, the grand master himself: Pan Qingfu (known as the Iron Fist). Pan was the best in the world and was known as the Iron Fist because he punched a heavy iron plate 10,000 times a day! Mark was also learning Tai Chi and Chinese manners and etiquette from Teacher Wei and calligraphy as well from other teachers.
   
   Mark soon found that "as a student in America, he had searched for ancient wisdom, as a teacher in China, he learned to find it in himself." Mark Salzman, when interviewed, stated: "Learning about another culture doesn't mean you have to reject your own, It allows you to see yourself from another perspective, see your good side and your bad side and appreciate what you have." Some will say that the book and the movie focus on martial arts and in part that is one of the major themes; but the blending and the co-existence of the two cultures in the classroom and in social interactions is illuminating.
   
   There are many humorous and philosophical revelations in both the book and movie. Telling Mark that he has a big nose by saying, "You have a very 3 dimensional face"...is probably the most diplomatic way of stating the obvious. Mark might have been able to name the book, "Let's Make a Regulation" if he wanted to only focus on the difficult aspects he faced in being a foreigner living in China. The Washington Post reviewed that "Salzman demonstrates with skill and subtlety just how China society works."
   
   This Pulitzer Prize finalist in 1987 is dated; but describes the undercurrent that still exists in part today. The movie's script stayed true to the book; yet the movie was shot in Hangzhou and not Changsha. Make sure to stay for the vignettes and movie credits at the end; they are another joyful experience of the film and you will not be disappointed that you waited. Mark found out that happiness was not a simple thing in China and though he valued being well liked and mastering a skill; his Chinese friend felt that "these goals can be achieved easily. All you have to do is to be kind and work hard. But to eat and sleep well that is a difficult wish, because you cannot control these things yourself."
   
   One interesting note is that on the last night of the shooting of the movie, the brutal crackdown occurred in Tiananmen Square (June 3, 1989).
   
   I loved this book and the movie and the delight that two very different cultures shared in learning about each other. All that I can say is "very well done" (Manhaodilei!)
   
   Mark really learned Qong Fu: a skill that transcends mere surface beauty!
   
   Bentley/2007
   Iron and Silk



3. This was how Mark Salzman's students thought of him in China. His account of his time spent there in the early 1980s is a fantastic journey in and of itself. His narrative style is intriguing as he does not probe into the thinking of the Chinese people that he encounters day to day. He presents his experiences always on the surface and rarely speculates on the speakers intentions. Even though he is fluent in Chinese he does not seek to offer insight in the mindset of the culture he lived; he only reports it. Although such dialogue may sound superficial and trivial it is not. Salzman draws us into the events by merely presenting his encounters with his Chinese friends and acquaintances, and chance meetings. So powerful are the stories that the words and actions of the individuals portray an honesty and passion that is captivating.
   The uniqueness of everyday Chinese thinking he faced for two years is inherently surprising, delightful, curious, odd, shocking, and hilarious.This was truly a memorable account of a young man who came not only to teach but to learn as well.



4. This memoir is light and humorous and a wonderful way to learn about Chinese culture.



5. Sometimes travel books can come across as "looking down" on the locals for their backwards and silly ways. This book shines in quite the opposite direction. Mark Salzman does an admirable job of telling about the challenges of his years in China in the 1980s, when China was still getting used to having Westerners within its borders. He encounters numerous bureaucratic hurdles, faces them with diligence. He meets many smart and wonderful locals and appreciates their talents. He realizes that many things he took for granted - electricity that always came on, a steady supply of food, mail service that delivered on schedule - were not to be assumed here.
   
   The book is very well written. There were numerous parts that I laughed out loud at, and then read it to whoever was sitting near me at the time. There were other sections that were very sad. A woman commits suicide and everybody is worried that her children will suffer - her suicide is a crime against the Party, and her children will be punished as somehow not having properly prevented it.
   
   There are many stories that illustrate a variety of differences between how Mark (and most Westerners) would interpret a situation, and how the Chinese do. It is fascinating to see him stymied by cultural misunderstandings, figuring his way around taboos and rules. A Westerner might say "Well why not just do XXXX and get it all done with?" But to the Chinese, it is far more proper to do things in a very different way.
   
   One story that stuck with me involved a Chinese person trying to explain to Mark why the Chinese are so patient and accepting. The Chinese person said: once there was a farmer who had his horse run away. People said "how awful" but the farmer did not worry about it. Then the horse came home with a whole herd of friends. People said "how lucky!" but again the farmer did not react. Then the farmer's son broke a leg training one of the new horses, and people said "how awful" - but the farmer did not mind. Then the army came looking to drag away recruits for the war, and the son was safely ignored. This story was an example of why short term ups and downs should just be accepted as part of life's long term path.
   
   Highly recommended for anyone interested in the Chinese culture.